The 100 Years of Black Fashion That Almost Went Unnoticed
When WWD announced the release of their book, "Black in Fashion: 100 Years of Style, Influence and Culture," I thought, 'That was my idea!'
No, the publication did not steal my idea by any means.
I'm thrilled to hear about this milestone recognition of black fashion and culture. However, once upon a time, back in 2011, I pitched this idea to Bloomsbury Publishing.
I'm not sure how I mustered up the courage to contact one of the most prestigious book publishers in fashion. However, the editor was interested in my idea; I just needed to submit a proper proposal. To my dismay, a fellow fashion journalist from a popular publication at the time, who I will not name, shot down my book idea. This black fashion journalist—let's call it like we see it here, a straight-up hater—didn't see the point of a book celebrating black style. "You wouldn't want a book about white style," he said, questioning the need to elevate black fashion. What's so special? What's so different?
Homeboy was hard-pressed about it, too. Sambo (not his real name) was striving for that promotion from the cotton field to the house. He clearly didn't want to feel obligated to engage in conversations about why black people tend to be fashion's biggest muse.
Rather than ending the conversation with a heartfelt "I wish you the best with your book," he woke up and chose pettiness.
Am I going to say black people are the innovators of fashion? That's not factually true. But are we not gonna to talk about FUBU, Ann Lowe, Patrick Kelly, Willi Smith, Stephen Burrows, André Leon Talley, and Virgil Abloh?
Are we not going to recognize the Michael "Air" Jordan phenomenon, the bling era, or the Harlem Renaissance?
I'm proud of the book's brilliant writers, Tonya Blazio-Licorish and Tara Donaldson. Their roles at WWD have placed these women in unique positions for such a complex undertaking, combining their encyclopedia knowledge on this historical topic with their lived experiences.
If anything, this project took way too long. I wanted to bring this topic to the forefront more than twelve or thirteen years ago, and I'm glad that the establishments have finally taken notice.
I didn't pursue the book. The editor moved to a different publishing company, and writing a book wasn't something I was professionally ready for. Living in London, UK, I was still finding my footing as a budding fashion writer. When it comes to ideas such as this, you need to respect the hierarchy.
Luckily, the emails stay in my archive as tangible memories.
Women's Wear Daily and the Fairchild Archives book, "Black in Fashion: 100 Years of Style, Influence and Culture" is out now.
As for those who refuse to recognize the significance of black people's contributions to fashion,
Well...
It always be ya own people, smgdh.
Stop the hate.
Ciao Edie!